Chris Becksvoort’s Shaker-Inspired Side Chest

26 June 2024 Stan

The original version of this pine side chest was made in the Mt. Lebanon Shaker community, probably in the mid to late 19th century. It’s a small, easy-to-build piece, just right for next to the couch, next to the bed, or in the hall. Looking at the photo, the construction seems fairly straightforward: nails, dadoes, and dovetailed drawers. However, as with any piece re-created only from a photo, it’s a guessing game choosing between what is known, what is visible, and current best practices. I made this version out of cherry, using my usual construction techniques. Though it’s not in keeping with the original Shaker design, I decided to make the piece even more useful by adding a shelf under the drawers. Perfect for that stack of books in your reading queue.

Side panels

The side panels are where the action is in this piece. They have integral legs cut into the bottoms, they hold all the joinery for the case, and they are nice wide panels that show off the grain you choose.

Chris uses a shop made featherboard to help him cut one shoulder of a rabbet on the tablesaw. he is holding the piece vertically.

The top, sub-top, shelf, and side panels are each edge-glued from two boards. After gluing them up—matching grain as best I could—I cut them to size. To cut the rabbets in the sides for the back, I made a vertical and a horizontal pass over the table saw. A router, dado blade, or even a rabbet plane will also work. Then I made the cutout at the bottom of the side to create the legs, laying out the angles with a bevel gauge and cutting on the bandsaw. Next, I routed the three dadoes across each case side for the drawer dividers and the shelf.

After laying out the legs on the bottom of the sides, carefully cut them out on the bandsaw.

Chris uses a dado stack on the tablesaw to cut dadoes on the inside of the sides of the cabinet. — At the table saw, with a dado blade, cut the three dadoes on each side. One dado for the web frame between the drawers, another for the divider beneath the two drawers, and a third for the shelf. Shallow dovetail sockets will be cut later at the front of each dado.

I used half-blind dovetails to connect the sides to the subtop and give the case maximum strength and stability.

Chris uses spring clamps to attach a clamping caul to the top of the sides, where dovetails have been cut. — With spring clamps, attach a block across the dovetails at the top of the sides. This protects the surface of the work while acting as a clamping caul.

Chris uses wooden handscrew clamps to hold the sides vertically while he puts the top in place for glue up.

Chris uses three bar clamps to clamp the sides to the top.

Drawers and case

The upper and lower drawer dividers and the shelf are set in dadoes, and at the front edge all three have shallow dovetails that lock them to the case sides. I made the dovetailed portions of them by dovetailing the ends of a wide blank, which I ripped apart into three narrow strips, adding one to the front of each member.

Chris holds a board vertically on the router table. — At the router table, with the stretcher stock held upright, cut dovetails on both ends.

Chris rips the same board into three parts on the table saw. — With the dovetails cut, you can rip the stock into three separate pieces.

Chris uses a miter gauge to cut notches out of the dovetailed ends of each of the dividers. — Still at the table saw, notch back the dovetails. Cut the shoulders of these notches on the dado layout line.

The divider beneath the lower drawer is a solid panel like the shelf. For both of them, I made a solid panel and glued a dovetailed strip to the front. After sliding the panel into the dadoes I traced around the dovetails. Then I removed the panel and cut the sockets to house the dovetails.

Chris glues a dovetailed strip to the panel that makes the shelf.

Chris uses a trim router to rout out waste on the sides of the chest, held together with spring clamps.

Chris Chisels a dovetail shaped mortise in the sides of the shaker inspired side chest.

The divider between the two drawers is an open web frame; its front rail is one of the dovetailed strips. The frame is mortised and tenoned on all four corners but I used glue in the front only. This allows for wood movement on the sides of the case, as the non-glued tenons are able to telescope in and out, depending on the seasons.

Chris uses a mallet to chisel a mortise in the parts that will make a web frame.

Assemble the case from the top down. The half-blind subtop gets glued to the sides first, followed by the web frame, the solid divider beneath the drawers, and the shelf. I made sure the case was square, and then sanded the sides.

Chris taps one side of the web frame into place. — After gluing the web frame’s dovetailed front rail to the sides, turn the case face down and tap the rest of the web frame together, but don’t glue it. This allows for wood movement. With the back in place the web frame wont go anywhere. A spacer at the bottom keeps the sides from tipping inward.

Chris slides a panel that serves as the lower divider.

Chris slides the bottom panel into the shaker inspired side chest.

Add the back and top it off

I used horizontal tongue-and-grooved boards for the back, like the original. The bottom board was cut out to match the sides. The top board was glued to the subtop, while the other boards were nailed into the back rabbets.

I cut the case top to size, eased its edges, and attached it with screws through the subtop. Both drawers were dovetailed and set flush with the face. My version has walnut knobs, like the original, for just a hint of authenticity. I finished the piece in oil, my usual.

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